3530 Irvine Ave.
Newport Beach. CA 92660
Barbecue restaurants can be challenging to eat at. I should clarify that delicious barbecue restaurants are challenging to eat at. It's easy to pull up to a mediocre barbecue spot at 6 p.m. on a Saturday, have some bland biscuits with apple butter, and then choke down some dry brisket or small ribs with a minuscule amount of meat. Yes, I'm bashing Lucille's, which far too many people seem to love for some reason. It could be because it's easy to eat there.
The great barbecue places have the following things in common: They are open for a limited number of hours because once they are out of something, they are out for the day. People usually stand in line well before they are open, and it takes a long while to get in because they have to weigh each order. Lastly, if you spy a smoker on the premises with a strong wood smoke aroma in the air, odds are that you are in for some excellent barbecue. JW Hayes BBQ ticked all of these boxes, and I was excited.
Jeff Hayes started out on the competitive barbecue circuit back in 2013. He grew a loyal following at barbecue festivals. Still, he yearned to open up his own place where he could have more direct contact with customers and share his barbecue prowess with a more significant number of people. He ordered two 500-gallon smokers and started selling his barbecue out of the Minute King liquor store in February 2023.
Since then, his Saturday-only stint at the liquor store near the corner of Irvine and Bristol has drawn crowds of barbecue lovers. I had a rare Saturday off from work, so I traveled the twenty minutes from home to try them. I arrived at 11am and was met with a line of twenty people snaking around the inside of the store's perimeter. It took me about 45 minutes from when I got in line until I left with my haul. Next time, I'd get here closer to their opening time of 10am.
The menu featured ten kinds of meat and five sides when I visited. Meats included barbecue standards like brisket, pulled pork, beef ribs, tri-tip, pork steaks, pork spare ribs, turkey breast, chicken, and a prime brisket burger. The sides offered were sweet corn, coleslaw, mac and cheese, beans with or without brisket, and deviled eggs. Side go for $7 to $12, while the meats range from $16 to $45 a pound for the beef ribs. I made my selections and resisted trying anything until I got home. It was hard because of the wonderful smell of smoked meats coming from my passenger side, but I persevered.
I never grew up eating mac and cheese. In fact, to this day, I have never had Kraft mac and cheese out of the blue box. Yes, I know. I was deprived as a child. That's why I always try the Smoked Mac and Cheese ($8) at any barbecue spot I visit, including JW Hayes. The mac and cheese had a smokiness, but I would have liked adding a textural element, especially since it was cheesy. Maybe some bread crumbs or some pieces of brisket. The Coleslaw ($7) was just how I like it; it's very saucy. It had a slight tang to it, but the end of each bite contained a sweetness. Good, but I could see some people not liking this.
I have to admit, I really enjoyed JW Hayes BBQ. Is it the best in OC? As Heritage BBQ still holds that title, it's not, but I'd slot them into my number four spot, right behind Heritage, Evan's Smokehouse, and Craft by Smoke and Fire for the best barbecue in OC. I wish they had sausage and were more creative with their sides. For those of you looking to eat here, there are very few tables and chairs out front, so this is definitely a take-out spot during busy hours. Speaking of their hours, as I was writing this review, I saw on Instagram that they will be increasing their days of operation to Wednesday through Friday from 4 to 8pm and keeping their Saturday hours the same (10:30-4pm). So, maybe JW Hayes BBQ will become easier to consume, and more people will see how good this barbecue is. Perhaps someday, people will also learn that Lucille's is not a good barbecue restaurant. I'm not holding my breath, though
Out of five race cars (because this barbecue spot sits at the end of the runway of John Wayne Airport, and in 1950, the abandoned airstrip was used for drag racing until 1959), five being best to zero being worst, JW Hayes BBQ gets 3.5 race cars.
For more information about JW Hayes BBQ, head to their Instagram page for all the latest about them by clicking here: https://www.instagram.com/jwhayesbbq/?hl=en