Thursday, September 29, 2022

The Sun Is Shining Bright at Solstice


 Solstice

18555 Jamboree Road

Irvine, CA 92612


To clarify, I have never worked in the restaurant industry, so take what I'm about to say next with that in mind. I think restaurant people are some of the best people. I've been writing reviews and going to food festivals for the last 13 years, and I can not think of a time we walked away from a chef, server, general manager, or restaurant owner with any ill feelings. 

I bring this up because one of my favorite restaurant people is Katie Pavkov. We met her seven years ago when she was the general manager of Del Frisco's Grille at the Irvine Spectrum, and we had an instant connection. Over the ensuing years, we visited with Katie on numerous trips to Del Frisco's, and we were sad to hear that she had left there and were curious about where she had ended up. Finally, we tracked her to her new endeavor, Soltice in Irvine. 

Solstice is located at the recently completed office building known as the Boardwalk, situated at the corner of Jamboree and Dupont Drive. They opened in early March and are brought to us by the Captivate Hospitality Group. Until recently, there was another location in Newton, Pennsylvania, but that spot closed its doors for good in June, primarily due to pandemic issues. 

This new Solstice also had pandemic problems. Their opening was delayed due to supply chain issues for six months. Still, they are moving full steam ahead with a culinary team that includes Demitrio Zavala, the culinary director and chef. Also on board is Brittany Valles, lastly at the Fashion Island Hotel, serving as their executive chef. Add Katie to the management team; this sounds like a can't-miss restaurant success story. 

Solstice is very much a seasonally inspired restaurant. In fact, that's what has brought us here this past June 20th, also known as the day before the Summer Solstice. It's when their menu changed from spring to summer, and they had a prix fixe event that we had to reserve and pay for beforehand. The cost was $65 per person, including three courses and a glass of champagne upon arrival. We arrived at a very full restaurant, and from our vantage point, it appeared that almost everyone was taking advantage of this one-day preview of the summer menu items. So let's see what they had cooked up for us this evening. 


It's been a while since we've had any sort of amuse-bouche at any restaurant. I guess we have had way too much takeout recently. This bite-sized little starter was a dab of ricotta with watermelon rind. Not a combo that I would normally partake in, but it was got me excited for what was to come. 

From what I've been able to tell from the menu at Soltice, Parker House Rolls ($7) are on their menu all the time, but they top them with something different depending on the season. They went with a plum glaze and a citrus ginger butter for summer. The rolls were nice and fluffy, and the plum glaze added a subtle sweetness. I did not get too much in the way of citrus with the butter, but it was very creamy, which is what I really wanted the most.  


Our first course was up; for Katie, that meant the Heirloom Tomato Caprese ($15). Katie is a big caprese fan, and this salad did not disappoint. This brightly colored salad contained sliced tomatoes, pickled shallots, whipped ricotta, radish, and Thai basil with a passionfruit vinaigrette. Katie felt that each forkful of this salad was a celebration of summer. The fresh tomatoes with the light vinaigrette were refreshing, but the shallots made this salad for her, which tied everything together expertly. 

Summer is not really soup time unless it's chilled soup. That's precisely what Soltice had in store for me with this Cantaloupe Gazpacho ($8). I'm not a big cantaloupe fan, but I found this soup refreshing, and the cantaloupe flavor was cut with smoked cashews and caramelized citrus honey that added a bit of sweetness to this. I'm still not a cantaloupe fan, but I enjoyed this more than I thought. 

We were presented with two surprise additions to our prix fixe menu, starting with this Summer Squash Tartare ($13). The housemade chips were topped with cubed squash and a minuscule amount of gochjang, a Korean red chili paste. I saw a picture of this on Yelp, and it was plated more elaborately, with a streak of eggplant puree and the chips sitting straight up. Our version was fine, but it definitely needed something to make it pop flavorwise. Nevertheless, the squash was fresh, and the chip held its crunch well.  

One of the most artfully constructed side dishes you will ever see, this Roasted Eggplant ($10) was another surprise addition to our meal. I usually find eggplant too bland, but with the basil whipped ricotta, garlic confit, and the drizzle of citrus honey joining it, this was a better version of this bulbous purple fruit than I've had in a while. 

Our entrees were out next. Katie was intrigued enough by this Sweet Corn Ricotta Gnocchi ($24) to try it. The gnocchi was nicely done and quickly deemed hand-made on the premises after her first bite. These little potato dumplings were accompanied by two kinds of sliced mushrooms and a sauce made up of garlic, truffle butter, herbs, and dashi, a broth used in Japanese cooking. It was finished off with four thin strips of pecorino. She enjoyed this dish's richness, but she would probably opt for one of the two pasta options with meat the next time we visit Solstice.  


Judging by the Solstice Yelp page, this Malbec-Braised Wagyu Short Rib ($34) might be the most popular item on their summer menu. Judging by the number of photos posted online. This good-sized hunk of meat was predictably tender and flavorful. It sits atop a mashed potato puree and wilted greens, then topped with a dusting of herbs and garlic. It was then finished with a rich bordelaise sauce that encircled the beef. Not a bad bite in the bunch. This plate did not scream summer like the others, but I would not hesitate to order this whatever season it was offered. 


Dessert, of course, would be our last hurrah this evening, and we strategically got two different ones to try. Both disappointed. The Brown Butter Fudge Cake ($10) was a total miss for me. The cocoa crumble was covered by a passion fruit sorbet, almost served at room temperature, which I was not expecting. The fudge rectangle was fine, as long as I dodged the way too tart passion fruit gel dollops topping it. I had higher hopes for the Peach Butter Cake ($10) since this is one of my favorite desserts. Unfortunately, the butter cake was not as sweet as others, and it was denser. The peach jam did not speak to me, and there was not enough honey vanilla gelato to sweeten things up here. 

Except for the desserts, we really enjoyed our maiden trip to Solstice. This special prix fixe menu celebrating the summer solstice was a great way to experience their summer menu. I was hoping they'd do it again with their recently debuted fall menu, but maybe because it was an equinox instead of a solstice, they chose not to do it. I know I did not get this review out promptly, as these dishes are unavailable now. However, perusing their fall menu, it looks like they make some tweaks to these items based on what is in season at the time. Like they substituted apple for peach on the butter cake, and they forgo the tomatoes in the caprese, instead going for more of an autumn feel by adding pears. The service was wonderful, and the dining room is light, breezy, and sleek. White walls, floor to ceiling windows across two sides of the restaurant allow the natural light to pour through, and the glassed off kitchen grants permission to spy the interworkings of the busy kitchen. It all adds up to another winner for our good friend Katie, and we look forward to return visits soon

Out of five catcher's mitts, (because in Alaska they celebrate the summer solstice by having a 10pm baseball game, with no artificial lighting needed), five being best to zero being worst, Solstice gets 3.5 catcher's mitts. 

To keep up with all things Solstice, head to their website by clicking here: https://dineatsolstice.com/

Thursday, September 22, 2022

Another Hit for 17th Street?


 17th Street Deli

369 East 17th Street #18

Costa Mesa. CA 92627


This is another place I heard about on Instagram. About a year ago, 17th Street Deli started following me, and I returned the favor and followed them back. Their sandwiches looked so good that I quickly put them on my list of places to try. I would have tried them out sooner, but they are only open from 11 to 3 daily, and with my work schedule, that leaves me only two days to visit. I purposely cleared my schedule on a Thursday and made my first trip for what I hoped would be some killer sandwiches, 

17th Street Deli has been in business since 1989 under different names and ownership in the Westport Shopping Center, a shopping plaza that features the favorite breakfast spot, Plums, Massimo's Pizza, House of Yogurt, and a Jack in the Box. The current owner is Hanna, who left the restaurant business, was successful in real estate, and achieved her dream of owning a deli when she purchased this place at the start of this year. 

Their website proudly proclaims the vendors that they have partnered with. Their meats and cheese come from Boar's Head, while their loaf bread is made by Bread Artisan. Local produce supplier Penjoyan Produce handles the veggies here, and the baguettes come from C'est Si Bon, located in neighboring Newport. 

The 17th Street menu is broken up into hot and cold sandwiches, lettuce wraps, sides, and chips, and they even offer a freshly baked cookie, which you will see in a moment. Their sandwiches run anywhere between $10 to $16. Since I live about 30 minutes away, I utilized their online ordering, which worked like a charm. The ordering process was easy to navigate, and my lunch was ready at the promised time. The hardest part of the process was my drive home, as I could not wait to dig into what I was expecting to be some solid sandwiches. So let's check them out. 


All the sandwiches here excited me, but I knew I'd have this Bomb Pastrami ($16.49). This explosive sandwich comes with coleslaw and sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and chopped pastrami on rye bread. I loved the contrasts in this sandwich. The tangy kraut and the sweet coleslaw worked well together. The savory pastrami and the creamy swiss were an excellent tandem. The bread held firm, even after my half-hour drive home. Boar's Head makes some good pastrami which 17th Street Deli puts to good use. Definitely one of the better sandwiches I have had this year.  


When eating at a deli for the first time, I like pairing a hot sandwich with a cold one. At 17th Street Deli, I had to choose from 12 different sandwiches. Maybe it was because of the name, but the Bacon Monster ($15.79) jumped out at me. This baguette was filled with a whole cavalcade of things. It starts with bacon, turkey, roast beef, and ham rolled up in the inner core of the sturdy but soft baguette. Provolone cheese, avocado, mayo, mustard, lettuce, and oil and vinegar completed the outer rings of this sandwich. Again, with the name of this sandwich, I was expecting more from the bacon here, but it did not stand out much. The rest of this was tasty, but I'd probably skip the lettuce next time to allow the meats and condiments to stand out a bit more. I'd also add some jalapenos or pepperoncini to give this a burst of spiciness next time.  

I've been on a Potato Salad ($1.99) kick recently. I'm trying to find one better than the one at Mario's Butcher Shop in Newport. This one from 17th Street Deli could not topple that one for the throne, but it was okay. The texture was spot on, equal parts creamy and chunky, but the flavor profile was just average. A fine accompaniment to your sandwich, but it didn't blow me away.  

I'm very particular about Chocolate Chip Cookies ($2.15). I usually like a cookie that has a crunchy outer ring and a soft doughy center in the middle. Even though this one was soft throughout, I really enjoyed it. Plenty of chocolate chips in it, and it had that just baked enough texture that a lot of people want, apparently like myself. 

17th Street Deli was well worth the trip. This is another deli I wish was located closer to where I live. I'd be a very faithful devotee to this spot. With all the excellent places to eat on 17th Street, it's almost not fair the number of choices that the residents of this area have when it comes to fantastic restaurant options. This deli is solid, the people are so lovely, the online ordering process worked like a charm, and that Bomb Pastrami sandwich is probably in my top ten sandwiches in all of OC. I'm so happy we connected on Instagram, and I look forward to some return visits soon. 

Out of five tow trucks (because the Automobile Club of Southern California is the 6th largest employer in Costa Mesa, and they run a fleet of tow trucks), five being best to zero being worst, 17th Street Deli gets 3.5 tow trucks. 

For more information about 17th Street Deli, head to their website by clicking here: https://www.17thstreetdeli.com/

Monday, September 19, 2022

Eating Out of the Vox in Fountain Valley


 Vox Kitchen

16161 Brookhurst Street

Fountain Valley, CA  92708


If you search Yelp for the most reviewed Orange County restaurants, Vox Kitchen is ranked number seven, with over 5,300 reviews. What's even more astonishing than that is that Vox Kitchen is the proud owner of a four-and-a-half-star rating. Yelp is notorious for its reviewers getting on their platform to complain about restaurants, so a place with such a high rating and many reviews has excited me. 

I was also excited because we were finally going to be able to eat at Vox Kitchen after a false start. About six months ago, we had come here and were met with a two-hour wait, which was not conducive to how hungry we were. We found a Peruvian spot a few miles away, but I knew we would be back to try this busy spot. With the help of the Yelp waitlist, we got our name on their list and timed it ideally to arrive at the restaurant just as our table was ready. It worked like a charm. 

Vox Kitchen is part of the Kei Restaurant Group, run by Executive Chef Viet Nguyen, who started Sup Noodle Bar in 2014. From there, he and his team opened up Vox Kitchen three years later and now have a full roster of restaurant concepts under their tutelage. Their website boasts 11 restaurants, most located within striking distance of the Little Saigon area. 

Vox Kitchen is described as Asian Comfort Food inspired by chifa cuisine. What is chifa cuisine, you ask? I had to look it up as well. It's the culinary fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine brought to Peru in the 19th and 20th centuries by East Asian immigrants. The menu resonated with the community, as they are packed almost every night. Let's check out what all the hoopla is about. 


We started things off with two small plates, the first of which was these Bacon Brussel Sprouts ($12). Everyone is doing a brussel sprout dish these days. This one from Vox is topped with crispy bacon, an egg, and pork sung, which I'd describe as pork dust. I liked that they did not try to do too much with this. They did not rely on a sweet sauce to make these sprouts enjoyable. Instead, they doubled up on the pork and allowed the runny egg to tie everything together. The sprouts could have been left to get a bit crisper, but they are a solid starter.  


Elote ($13) was not something I was expecting to find at Vox Kitchen, but they nailed it. Sweet corn mixed with parmesan, parsley, and spicy crema came together to create a nicely done version of this Mexican street food staple. It was not on the cob, so it was easier to eat this way. 

Our good friend Adrienne will start the entree part of our meal with her selection, the House Fried Rice with Chicken Thigh ($16). The fried rice is mixed with scrambled eggs and scallions and topped with a fried egg. The cubed chicken is served to the side, which I liked, as it lets the chicken stand out a bit more. The chicken was seasoned well and tender. No complaints from Adrienne with this one, as she took half of it home to be eaten for lunch the next day. 

Katie switched things up by getting the House Garlic Noodle with Filet Mignon ($20). They use an organic wheat noodle here and mix it with a little dusting of parmesan, butter, garlic, scallions, and a secret sauce. The result was quite delicious. Very comforting, and it went nicely with the cubed steak and onions. Katie enjoyed the tender beef, but it was overshadowed by the garlic noodles, which she called wonderfully delicious. She was also a big fan of the green aji sauce. 

I'm a sucker for a good Saltado with Filet Mignon ($20), and this one was one of the better ones I've had. Another comforting dish, this had a base of french fries with tomatoes, onions, and steak heaped over it. It was good, but their spicy green aji sauce raised this a level. The fries picked up the juices from the steak and made them a little mushy, which was fine. I steered clear of the big hunks of tomato and used my leftover aji sauce to mix with the scoop of rice to ensure my carb consumption was even higher than it typically is. 

Unlike me, my buddy Chris is very carb conscious, so he steered clear of the mound of rice on his  Mushroom and Rib-Eye Stir Fry ($17). Instead, the plentiful shimeji mushrooms are mixed with little bits of ribeye in a soy beurre blanc sauce. I thought the mushroom to steak ratio was one-sided here, in favor of the mushrooms, but no complaints from Chris about this. 

We made another visit to Vox Kitchen with my aunt and uncle a month or two later, and on that visit, I tried the House Fried Rice with Rib-Eye ($27). This was even better than my first meal here. Even though I'm a big fan of their saltado, the fried rice will be my go-to meal at Vox from here on out. The rice, fried egg, and the nicely done medium rare steak worked together to create a well-balanced meal. 

It's easy to see why Vox Kitchen is so popular. Their food is very comforting and appeals to a wide range of people. I could even see taking my parents here, who are not exactly the most adventurous eaters, and I bet even they would enjoy the food at Vox Kitchen. The prices here will not break the bank, but you need to be aware of something when eating here. They get their food out incredibly quickly, which is usually good, but not when you eat in a sit-down restaurant with family or friends. We felt rushed on our two trips here and were only here for 45 minutes. However, that doesn't change the fact that we really enjoyed Vox Kitchen and will return soon. I'm sure their popularity on Yelp will continue to grow. 

Out of five comic books (because there's a character in the DC Universe known as Vox), five being best to zero being worst, Vox Kitchen gets 3.5 comic books. 

For more information about Vox Kitchen, head to their website by clicking here: https://www.eatvox.com/

Tuesday, September 13, 2022

Doing More Than Win-Dow Shopping in Venice


 The Win-Dow

1827 Ocean Front Walk

Venice, CA 90291


Before I met and married Katie, I had never really been an LA guy. Instead, I was content to just go about my regular routine in OC. Sure, I had made a couple of trips to LA; visiting Universal Studios, going to Pasadena for the Doo-Dah Parade, watching our friend run the LA Marathon, and then going to Philippe's for a french dip sandwich afterward. But that was really about it. 

When I told her I had never been to the Valley, Katie was absolutely flummoxed. It almost rocked her to the core that I had never been there. She was even more shocked when I rattled off that I had never been to Santa Monica, Malibu, Westwood, or Griffith Park. We have since crossed most of these off this list, and it was time for another initial visit to an LA tourist spots, my first trip to Venice Beach. 

We were on vacation this week and decided to take advantage of the light midday traffic and try some burgers in Venice Beach. I had the excellent burger at Great White for lunch. As we walked the famous Venice Boardwalk, I spied The Win-Dow, which has gotten glowing reviews from the good folks over at Eater LA, with a well-researched article by Farley Elliot, which you can read here. I've also seen this spot featured on local TV, and even though I was not precisely hungry when we walked by, I felt obliged to stop and try it out because who knows when I will get back up this way again. 

The Win-Dow debuted in 2019, serving burgers from a window at American Beauty from 11-5pm on weekdays and 8am to 5 on weekends. They have since expanded to two other locations, one in Silverlake and the one we were visiting on this day, on the Venice Boardwalk. The Win-Dow is part of the same restaurant group as Superba, The Tasting Kitchen, and American Beauty, all of which have gotten glowing reviews in their own right. 

The menu at this beach location is very simple and straightforward. There are three burgers to choose from, a fried chicken sandwich, a grain bowl, a kale salad, and fries. They also have shakes and dipped cones for dessert. Nothing on their menu is over $7.95, which is even cheaper than Carl's Jr. these days. Even though we had just eaten, I was excited about my first Win-Dow experience. Let's check it out. 

My plan was that I was just going to have a single bite of whatever I got here and save the rest for later. However, after my first taste of the Double Cheeseburger ($6.50), I knew things were not going to go as planned. Nevertheless, I could not stop myself from eating the whole thing. The Angus patties were grilled on the flattop, allowing a bit of crispiness to surround the outer edge of the burger. This contrasted with the melted American cheese, grilled onions, pickles, and house sauce. The soft and pliable potato bun was structurally sound enough to keep everything together very nicely. Everything on this burger worked in perfect harmony to create an excellent sensory experience. I had wished I got one more to go, but I wasn't sure it would have lasted the hour drive home. 

The second of my two sandwiches was the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($6.25). This was on the same bun as the burger and featured a very well-made fried chicken, coleslaw, and a small amount of what I assumed to be mayo. The chicken had a crunchy breading, with tender chicken inside, Just what you want with a chicken sandwich. This just needed more mayo and coleslaw added to it to make it stand out more. Not awful, but you might want to bring your own jar of Best Foods mayonnaise if you order this sandwich.  

I was pretty impressed with The Win-Dow. Not only is their food available reasonably priced, but their stuff is pretty high quality. It makes you think that national fast food places are serving subpar food to us at inflated prices. For them, it's all about making money, unlike The Win-Dow, which is about making their customers happy by serving them a delicious burger at a more affordable price. We experienced good service this afternoon and got our food promptly. I'm glad I could cross the famous Venice Boardwalk off my list, but even more happy that I got to experience the burger at The Win-Dow. 

Out of five dumbbells (because this restaurant is close to Muscle Beach, the famous spot where many renowned bodybuilders get their start lifting dumbbells), five being best to zero being worst, The Win-Dow gets 3.5 dumbbells. 

For more information about The Win-Dow, head to their website by clicking here: https://www.thewin-dow.la/

Tuesday, September 6, 2022

Swimming With the Sharks at Great White in Venice


 Great White

1604 Pacific Avenue

Venice, CA  90291


I get my restaurant tips from many sources. It used to be that I'd read other people's blogs, but there aren't that many people blogging these days, except for yours truly. So that means I usually get my tips from Instagram, local press, and magazines. However,  most of my restaurant suggestions come from my readers and people I encounter daily. Almost everyone has an opinion on where the best food is, and they are not shy to give me their recommendations, which is awesome and welcomed. 

So who got me off my comfy couch to drive 62 miles north for lunch? It was none other than Phil Rosenthal. If you have not watched Somebody Feed Phil, which airs on Netflix, put it on your list of things to watch. His joy in eating and life is infectious. I usually binge the whole season within the first week of its release. It's that good, and the places he visits are definitely some I'd like to try one day. 

Anyways, Phil tweeted a picture of a burger he had, and it looked so good that I decided I had to try it. Both Katie and I had taken a vacation day, and it was the perfect time to visit Great White in Venice Beach. I had never been to Venice before, and with the light midday traffic, we made it up from South OC in under an hour. Parking was no problem this warm early June afternoon as we walked the few blocks to Great White. 

Great White is self-described as an all-day, casual cafe focusing on coastal Californian, fresh, and seasonal cuisine. This Venice location opened five years ago, followed by a Larchmont spot just under a year ago. The two Australian owners have created a light and breezy resort vibe in their dining room. Wicker basket light fixtures, white painted walls, and arched entryways are the dining area's focal point, attracting a young, hip, and good-looking clientele. 

The menu at Great White has a little bit of something for everyone. They serve breakfast from 8 to 3pm, lunch begins at 11, and the five main entrees are available after 3pm. The lunch menu is broken into six sections; salads, bowls, sandwiches, share plates, pizzas, and desserts. Most items on their lunch menu are around the $20 price point, which is reasonable these days. Let's see if the 50 minutes drive for lunch was worth it. 


Up first for us was some Avocado Dip ($14). The smashed avocado was combined with diced red onion, a sprig of cilantro, and some Aleppo pepper, which is moderately spicy, but added a tinge of cumin flavor to this dip. I liked the originality of this guacamole. It was fresh, and the Aleppo pepper made it a bit unique. This was served with some taro chips, which I would usually turn my nose to, but these provided a lightness that let the guacamole shine through a bit more. An excellent and light start to our visit to Great White.  

Chicken sandwiches are all the rage right now, and Great White has a very good one. Their Crispy Chicken Sandwich ($18 plus $2 for the sweet potato fries substitution) is not of the spicy Nashville variety. Instead, it's a straightforward version with cabbage slaw, pickles, and a secret sauce added to the nicely crisped breading coating the moist chicken. This was a very clean-tasting chicken sandwich, which was fried well and lacked the greasiness one associates with other inferior chicken sandwiches. The brioche bun held together nicely, but I would have asked for a little more of the secret sauce if this was my meal. Sweet potato fries are not really my thing, but Katie found these to be enjoyable. 


Here's why we came up to Venice, the Tremendous Burger ($18) I saw Phil Rosenthal having on Twitter. It was just as good-looking as what I remembered in that photo. The glossy bun with the wonderfully melted American cheese covering the two smashed burger patties is finished with some shredded lettuce, secret sauce, and caramelized fennel. This burger was worth the drive. It reminded me of a higher-quality In-N-Out burger, made with better ingredients and seasoned way better than anything that has come out of the kitchen at the aforementioned overrated fast food favorite. Due to all the cheese, it was a little messy to eat but worth getting dirty for. The fries were crisp, salted, and made even better when I asked for a Side of Garlic Aioli (.50). 

With just this one lunchtime visit, it's apparent that Great White is not only a beautifully designed restaurant, but they have some delicious food here too. If we lived closer, I could see us eating our way through their rather extensive menu often. I've heard good things about their breakfast burritos; the fish tacos, pasta dishes, and pizzas look worth trying. We experienced friendly service on this visit, as our server was pleasant but did not make a habit of sticking around our table too long. I'm sure he will never read this, but thanks, Phil, for posting the picture of your burger. I can't wait to see where you are going to eat next. 

Out of five beauty school dropouts (because the movie Grease was filmed at nearby Venice High School, and Beauty School Dropout is one of the songs in that movie), five being best to zero being worst. Great White gets 3.5 beauty school dropouts. 

For more information about Great White, head to their website by clicking here: https://greatwhite.cafe/