Thursday, May 9, 2019

Pino's Cucina the Only Italian in Town - CLOSED


Pino's Cucina
27522 Antonio Parkway
Ladera Ranch, CA 92694

The end of April and the first part of June is the start of the busy time for both Katie and me. It starts with our anniversary in mid-April, and then the family birthdays, anniversaries, and the usual Mother's and Father's Days keep us very busy through the middle of June. One of the few benefits of this time is that it allows us to try new restaurants, often with someone else picking up the tab.

That brings us to this visit to Pino's Cucina in Ladera Ranch. Katie's mom wanted me to find somewhere local for Katie's birthday, and I was more than happy to oblige. I quickly searched nearby restaurants on Yelp and found this place with a respectable 4-and-a-half-star rating, over 200 reviews, and a chef with quite the pedigree.

Chef Pino grew up in Sicily, learning his way around the kitchen from his mom, Giovanna. He left Italy to travel the world as a chef for Princess Cruises for nearly a decade. After the cruise ship stint, he settled in Orange County in 1995 and has been here ever since. He's worked at Stella's Serious Italian in Dana Point, Antonello Ristorante, and Nello Cucina in Costa Mesa. He has moved inland a bit to be the head chef at his namesake restaurant. The owners, Frank Domicolo (Pino's nephew) and Giovanni Magro (Pino's longtime friend), round out the team at Pino's with their own experiences working in casual and fine dining establishments in Europe and the States.

Pino's Cucina opened two years ago and is next to the 24-hour local favorite, Corky's. Before Pino's took over, this used to be a vegetarian restaurant. Predictably, I never came here when it was the veggie place. The restaurant is more significant than it appears from the outside. It has twenty tables, pictures of Italy on the walls, a high ceiling, and a Renaldo Juventus jersey prominently displayed on the back wall. 

The menu at Pino's is what you've come to expect at an Italian restaurant. There are plenty in the way of pasta options, with nearly twenty being offered and more substantial entrees featuring chicken, veal, beef, and seafood available for guests who want a little more heft to their meals. Entrees range between $18 to $35, and pasta dishes go for $14 to $25 for a lobster ravioli. There are also soups, salads, and starters for customers to consider. Enough with the buildup. Let's check out what we ate on this one of many birthday dinners for my beloved Katie.


Most Italian restaurants will start you with a bread basket, and Pino's Cucina was no different. They use soft ciabatta bread cut into manageable cubes, just the perfect size for dipping into the provided olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The waitstaff efficiently refilled the bread and dipping sauces regularly throughout our stay.



Man, we have been having some good luck with salads recently, and that trend continued at Pino's. Salads are not included with entrees or pasta dishes, but you should still get a salad here. This Caesar ($7) was traditional with its chopped romaine, croutons, delicious Caesar dressing, and thick parmesan squares. It had the perfect amount of dressing coating each leaf of romaine, and the cuts of parmesan were plentiful and added a nice touch. Katie and her mom were pleased with their House Salads ($7) of mixed greens, tomatoes, cucumbers, croutons, parmesan, and a fresh basil tomato vinaigrette. Katie praised the freshness of the produce in this salad, while her mom remarked that it was a pretty good size for a dinner salad.



For some reason, I had yet to hear the appetizers speak to me this evening, so I acquiesced and let Katie select one that she wanted to try. She chose the Arancini ($12), which she claims that we have had at another restaurant before, but I had no recollection of it until I searched our blog and saw that we had Arancini at Bruno's in Brea last summer. Sorry for doubting you, Katie. These at Pino's were shaped differently than the ones we had a year earlier. These were cone-shaped compared to the ping-pong ball-sized ones we had at Bruno's. These were filled with rice, meat sauce, mozzarella, and peas and deep-fried. I thought these were just okay. They needed more of a pop of flavor for me to take notice. Not awful, but nothing that memorable.


I'm always intrigued by what Katie's mom, Lynn, orders when we eat. It's almost always something I would not expect, like this Chicken Piccata ($18). She was all set to get the Chicken Marsala, but her neighbor convinced her that the piccata was the way to go at Pino's. She was happy she went with her neighbor's advice. This lightly breaded chicken was nice and tender in a traditional yet delicious piccata sauce of garlic, white wine, lemon, shallots, and capers. This also came with a dollop of mashed potatoes and some squash.


I went back and forth about what I wanted on this evening and eventually settled on this Mushroom and Sausage Risotto ($19). This was a very earthy dish with mushrooms and little bursts of flavor from the sausage coming through each bite. The risotto was cooked nicely also. I thought I got shortchanged when I saw the serving size, but it was more than enough, as it was very filling.


The birthday girl opted to get one of the first things I made for her when we first started dating: Spaghetti Carbonara ($18). She claims my carbonara is still the best she's had, which is untrue. This one was way better than mine. The cream sauce, finished with egg yolk, was rich and decadent. The chopped pancetta added a little heft to the dish, and the parmesan tied it together. It is a very comforting and filling version of a classic dish that means a lot to Katie and makes her very happy this birthday dinner.


There were three options for dessert, and not being a big fan of cannolis or tiramisu, that left us with the Profiteroles ($7) this evening. These were delicate cream puffs but did not really blow me away. The outer portion of these seemed too rigid, and there was not nearly enough chocolate drizzle on the plate to make it worthwhile for dipping. The inside cream was soft and sweet and was definitely the best part of this dessert.

Even though our ending dessert failed to impress, we loved our visit to Pino's Cucina, each of us vowing to return very soon. I quickly searched full-service Italian restaurants in Ladera Ranch, and it only yielded one result, Pino's. But this restaurant is good enough to be included on any list of great Italian restaurants in South OC. The Italian cuisine served here is definitely authentic and done, just like you'd expect from someone who learned to cook from their mother in Southern Italy. Service was pleasant and efficient, and we were even treated to a visit to our table by Pino himself, which was an excellent treat. Pino's was a great choice for one of Kaie's birthday dinners and getting us ready for lots of family time in the upcoming two months.

Out of five zebras (because it is easy to see from the decorations hanging on the walls that they love the Series A team Juventus here, and their mascot is a zebra), five being best to zero being worst, Pino's Cucina gets a very strong 3.5 zebras.

 For more information about Pino's Cucina, head to their website by clicking here: https://www.pinoscucinainladeraranch.com/

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